Day 21: Checking out

In style: (Hmm, one day adrift and as far as we're aware the itinerary has not included the International Date Line. Blame it on the G&Ts. We had no choice - we forgot our malaria tablets. Worked for our ancestors when in residence, hope it's worked for us....)

Day 20: Imperial Splendour

Back to reality (of a sort) today - we've left rural Rajasthan and are back in Delhi, staying at The Imperial, which is a very gentle return to earth prior to our departure tomorrow. That said, even in the finest hotel in the capital city we still managed a power cut this evening. Funniest moment of the day was arriving back in Delhi to find Madhav waiting to pick us up and grinning like a Cheshire cat. We left him at Udaipur with an envelope stuffed with Rs 500 notes, which may explain why he's so pleased to see us. (Quick rant on plane travel - why does a one hour flight between two hotels, each of which are 45 minutes from their respective airports, take a total of seven hours out of the day? This is how we spent most of the day: )

Day 18/19: The Devi Garh

A final recharge of body, soul & mind in a minimalist nest in the Aravalli hills. Time to face Hugo's spa tab...

Day 17: Hotel Spotting

We can smugly report that we have a much better view of the Lake Palace from our balcony than they do from the fabulously opulent Oberoi Udai Vilas hotel (Oberoi is in background): That said, the best view of all is from their bar, if you look up:

Photos

I've used the slightly disappointing weather this afternoon (cloudy) to upload some more photos here: 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/hugorodgerbrown/sets/72157603561920095/

View from the office

Just a quick pic - showing B writing the daily update - not a bad office I think you'll agree?

Day 14/15/16: Another day, another Nawab.

After a couple of days at the extremely chilled (in every sense - Hugo went to bed in his woolly hat) Bijaipur Castle

, we spent a wonderful night at the castle's lakeside tented camp (post an 18K cycle with the Nawab to get there), where B won the wildlife photo competition with this:

As the only guests, we were utterly indulged - heart-shaped 'cutlets' for breakfast inc! In other news, we've finally parted from Madhav, our driver and guardian over the past 12 days, and are now on our own, and back in civilisation - a beautiful room in Udaipur's City Palace complex, with a terrace overlooking the famous Lake Palace hotel. An extremely noisy wedding celebration is underway beneath our balcony as we type - the bride is just coming into view aboard an elephant, time to go and watch, before high tea on the lake.

Day 13: By Royal Appointment

Following on from our performance at last night's party, the Nawab himself invited us to move from the Queen's bedroom suite (see below) to the Royal Suite with his compliments this morning, it having been vacated earlier by another of last night's guests, the Governor of Rajasthan. His Eminence left in in a flurry of pomp, including a formal military review of the guard of honour, observed by us from our palatial apartments. The morning's excitement over with, we settled down to a relaxing day of ... nothing at all. Heavenly.

Day 12: Jodhpur to Deogarh

"It all began at Marwar Junction, three long summers and a thousand years ago". As for Kipling's protagonists in The Man Who Would Be King, so too our journey began at Marwar Junction, a small country town 100km out of Jodhpur, and far enough off the beaten track for us (in particular my blonde companion) to be the focus of attention rather than the other way round. After a quick wander through the market we were off on another fabulous train journey, three hours winding up through the Khamli Ghats and onto the Arvalli plains and our next castle hideaway. Bridget acquired a new best friend on the way, who's already called her phone six times since we parted. Our beautiful hotel suite opens out onto the main terrace bar, which later tonight may be a little congested - it's only 7.30pm, and our host the Nawab of Deogarh is already on his third G&T. Chin chin, and a happy new year to you all.

Day 11: Forbidden Fruits of India

And so the civilisation continued with tea & biscuits in bed - and this lookout in the early morning from the same spot! But another palace to gasp at in Jodhpur, and more shopping to be done...... As Lokesh (the salesboy) pressed 'charm', and swathed us in forbidden shahtoosh & phatoosh - so the bags accumulated and numerous credit cards were put to the test. Christmas after all!

Day 10: Camp Rules

After another five hours in the car with the fearless Madhav at the wheel, we motored in to the heavenly Chhatra Sagar just in time for an organic lunch overlooking a private reservoir teeming with birdlife. After a few glasses of fine local wine, Hugo was nowhere to be seen. Assuming he was twitching with binos at the water's edge, I turned my attention to the murmurings of our fellow campers: some nutter had been sighted in the water and was now on the opposite bank - probably stranded, having spotted the resident croc.... Fearing the truth, I raised my binos to spot you-know-who bobbing about on a tyre in the centre of the waters. The only fabrication had fortunately been the resident croc. Swimming is nevertheless strictly forbidden.

After lying low for a few hours, we took up the owner's suggestion of a sunset hike up the adjoining hill.

The unexpected reward of a G&T at the summit with our fellow campers seemed to suggest that all crimes had been forgiven and we were welcome at the camp fire for fine dining under the stars. How civilised...

Day 9: cf. Blog Title

Unable to resist an ice-cubed G&T last night, Hugo has found himself a victim of the local curse..... However, determined not to admit to his crime, at 9h30 this morning we were both lolloping up to the Amber Fort (just outside of Jaipur) aboard an elephant - of course, not a single other tourist in sight..... The Fort was indeed stunning (17th Century central heating & a/c inc) but it was great to finally have a hotel pool to escape to for the afternoon. Inspired by the day's weight loss and a few lengths, I managed to talk Hugo into a shopping trip: jackets & dresses to be delivered at precisely 16:00 on 8 Jan, The Imperial, Delhi. Results will be posted. Fittings were followed by a daily curry at a local establishment with the obligatory strip lighting, formica tables and company of the ever-earnest Peace Corps Movement.

Day 8: The land of palaces

Having escaped Agra without prompting a Sky newsflash (tourists are currently a very prized possession amongst the locals - 8 missing in the past week), we finally find ourselves in the increasingly fashionable Rajasthan via a pitstop at the stunning deserted city Fatepuhr Sikri. (Note to my former crewmates: built by Moghul Akbar no less!) Talking of the lauded, we seem to have joined them - arriving at our dazzling white palace this evening to a personal fanfare and a plethora of turbaned, slippered footmen. All bodes well.....

Photos

Unfortunately the internet connections we have access to are very irregular, and although we've taken some lovely photos, uploading them is proving quite difficult. We'll try and get some posted soon, but in the meantime apologies for the lack of snaps. [Update: photos are being uploaded here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/hugorodgerbrown/sets/72157603561920095/]

Day 7: Finally, a transport option that works

I'm happy to report that Indian Railways (useless fact: largest employer in the world) runs an excellent service from Jabalpur to Agra. Leaving exactly on time, we arrived in Agra three minutes early, having had a better night's rest than at our previous hotel (v. cold)! Oh yes, we also popped in to see something called the Taj Mahal. And yes, it is absolutely amazing. Definitely not just another palace / castle / site on the tour (as we were cruelly reminded whilst being dragged around the Red Fort of Agra afterwards like sulky teenagers). (In between the train and the Taj we slotted in an hour at the hotel spa, which was more akin to an hour in the ring with Mike Tyson. I had to take painkillers after my massage as my heading was hurting so much, and B had a contact lens split in two in a bruising encounter with the facialist.) [update: Our Delhi host, in a great show of company loyalty, has pointed out that his employer, Walmart, employs more people than the Indian Railways. Thank you James for clearing that up.]

Day 6: Christmas Day!

Well if it hadn't been for the resident pneumatic santa at the camp, we may well have forgotten the significance of today's date - particularly given the utter lack of presents i.e. a live tiger. Boo hoo. However, just as we were leaving the forest, we did witness a beautiful scene of mahouts with their elephants. To be honest, given respective living conditions, I have a feeling mahouts are now even rarer than the elusive tiger (she consoles herself). Time to brave the Indian rail network...

Day 5: When we went down to the woods today....

Lots of festive 'bambi', preening peacocks and cavalcades of screeching Indian families, but no tigers - yet. Vikram our naturalist has a sleepless night ahead of him. Hugo claims he saw a particularly nimble leopard - at 5:45am by the light of the moon. Tomorrow morning he'll claim he's seen Father Christmas. [HRB: one of the local camps is called... Tiger Woods]

Day 4: On Our Way

Hooray  - we're finally off on holiday! After securing a place on a flight out of Delhi at 5.30am (up at 2.30am), and a six hour drive, we've arrived in tiger territory. Went out on a drive this evening, and although one of the groups out in the park did see the big One, we were unlucky. Hopefully three more drives to go, and the park (Kanha) is beautiful, so nice just to be out and about.

Day 3: AAAAAAAAARRRGH

We have become victims of the legendary Indian transport chaos. Up at 5am for a flight that was cancelled, and we're now desperately trying all available options to get us to those Tigers. A 1,200km train ride in class 3A is currently our top option. "It's not alright".

Day 2: First Contact

After a quick tour round the imperial / republican side of New Delhi, we hopped in a rickshaw for a more chaotic roundup of Old Delhi; bizarrely Bridget and I have taken only hours to become one of the sights ourselves - with eager young Delhinis desperate to have their photos taken with one or other of us.

(Please excuse the focus - camera was set to target the closest object; quality will improve.) Off for a curry tonight, and then tiger-hunting for the next week - I've packed a couple of goats for bait (easy to come by right now, as today is the Muslim festival of Eid), so it's pith helmets and ammo-belts to the ready...

Day 1: Delhi Descent

Well, so much for avoiding Christmas and honing our rucksack personae.... Soiree 1: Location - The Verandah, The British High Commission, Delhi Hostesses - The delightful Arabella, Imogen & Venetia Guests - Delhi's hottest (& tallest) It Couple, Mr & Mrs James Behrens Menu - Mince Pies & Mulled Wine Dancing to Christmas Carols by a roaring fire But we secretly loved it - thank you to all those named above.